"Virginia is one of the best places on earth to grow naturally dry, full-bodied wine," said James Bogaty, founder and co-owner with his wife of Veramar Vineyard in Berryville, Virginia.
Many winemakers and wine consumers alike would agree.
Virginia's has been making a comeback as wine-producing state. According to the Virginia Wine Marketing Office, the state's 87 wineries turned 3,600 tons of wine grapes into 576,000 gallons of wine in 2003, and retail sales of Virginia wines totaled approximately $50 million that year.
It wasn't always that way. Over the years, Virginia's wine industry has suffered some hard times and setbacks. Although as early as 1609 farmers were making wine from native grapes, attempts to establish a wine industry failed. Thomas Jefferson, "The Father of American Wine", was instrumental in encouraging these efforts. Nearly 200 years later, when grape growers decided to experiment with hybrids of American and European grapes to create a hardier plant, their efforts met with greater success.
These innovations contributed to a growing wine industry that lasted until the Civil War, when battles in Virginia destroyed acres of vineyards. Prohibition later dealt another damaging blow, effectively wiping out the state's winemaking production.
Fortunately, several factors in the 1960's encouraged Virginia's wine industry, resulting in impressive
growth. There are now 26 wineries in northern Virginia alone and the state ranks 10th nationally in commercial grape production.
The Bogaty family feels that their location in northern Virginia, in a valley formed by the Shenandoah River, is an ideal spot for their operation.
Justin Bogaty, vice president of operations for Veramar, cites wonderfully rich soil and their location, near the Shenandoah River, as some of the reasons for their success.
A mentor once told me, "your job is to take what God gave you and don't screw it up," he said.
In Markham, Naked Mountain Vineyard and Winery began as a pleasurable pastime for Phoebe and Bob Harper.
"This is a hobby that got out of hand," Bob said, as he stood in the beautiful chalet that doubles as a wine-tasting room. The Harpers began with a few vines, but decided to expand their operation, and eventually found the perfect property to establish their winery, in the heart of the Blue Ridge Mountains.
It's not only Virginia's environment has promoted the wine industry's growth. The winery and vineyard owners are especially dedicated to producing a quality product, as well as striving to improve upon their product. At Veramar, wines must pass muster with the "three-headed monster" of Justin, James, and a wine consultant. At Naked Mountain, "the wine ages from four to 18 months in oak barrels. Bottling occurs when the wine is ready, and not according to any other schedule," Bob said. Three-quarters of their production is barrel-fermented chardonnay, their signature wine.
The Virginia Wine Marketing Office reports that wine-related tourism revenue totals $26.5 million. That's not hard to fathom. Spending the day combing northern Virginia's scenic back roads while touring the region's wineries has all the makings of a great adventure.
Resources
The Virginia Wine Marketing Office offers a Virginia Wineries Festival & Tour Guide, a booklet that lists the state's wineries plus details such as hours of operation, directions, and contact information. For a free copy of the booklet, call 800.828.4637.
Naked Mountain Vineyard & Winery is located at 2747 Leeds Manor Road, State Rt. 688, Markham, Virginia 22643. Their phone number is 540.364.1609; their website is located at Naked Mt.
Veramar Vineyard is located at 905 Quarry Road, Berryville, Virginia 22611. They can be reached at 540.955.5510 .