Alexandria VA’s Carlyle House
Former House of Mystery Now Shines Again in 18th Century Splendor
How did one of the most formidable homes of the Potomac port city disappear from view for over a century- while remaining intact? Visit the Carlyle House for answers.
If history is a personal interest a stop by the Carlyle House is required. It is hard to imagine that this formidable multi storied Palladian stone structure was once the most mysterious home in Alexandria.
During the mid 19th century, a large hotel was built in front of it, completely obliterating the former merchant’s home from view and the memory of the people. Luckily, during the 1970s it was rescued from the wrecking ball, and now stands as a shining example of America’s pioneer merchant class, and their desire to “show off their wealth” to any and all.
John Carlyle, the original owner, and a founder of Alexandria was noted for his hospitality. However, British General Edward Braddock, known for his swagger during the French and Indian War, was a guest whose welcome was soon exhausted. He had the habit of cursing his colonial hosts as the “spawn of convicts”, which English born, land gentried Carlyle took, justifiably, as a personal affront. It is doubtful the wealthy merchant felt much sadness when it was reported - by a young George Washington returning from the wilds of western Pennsylvania - that the boorish Braddock had been killed in an ambush.
While Carlyle himself was not historically important to the Colonial or Revolutionary cause, he did rub elbows with the men of the day who did determine the young nation’s destiny.
Following his death in 1780, and that of his only son’s the following year – the huge stone house was soon sold out of the family, and by the mid 19th century a large wooden hotel had completely obliterated the Carlyle homestead from public view and memory.
Luckily during urban renewal, over 120 years later, the stone house was rediscovered and its architectural riches and historical importance thanks to 20 plus letters from John Carlyle to his brother, George, in England once again made Carlyle House an address of prominence in Alexandria. An upstairs room remains unfinished so visitors can appreciate centuries old craftsmanship from chisel marks on stones to bonding agents of horsehair and shells.
Now the house is presented to visitors in different phases throughout the year.
One of the more poignant is October. Large swags of black mourning cloth are draped over the front entrance and family coat of arms. It was during the fall when Carlyle died, and in his large bedroom one’s imagination needs little help in recalling that sad time as a sheet-draped corpse reposes in the bed.
The central entry hall – normally used for joyous dancing and entertaining is lined with Windsor chairs, bereavement bands and food and drink for visiting mourners.
A replica of Carlyle’s coffin lies in the home’s grandest room, with a Masonic apron atop it, and a life sized mannequin of one of home’s nine slaves, sitting in attendance, his obvious grief at his master’s passing felt by the downward slope of his shoulders. True to 18th century custom, a time before embalmment was customary – a bowl of fragrant rosemary sprigs are nearby.
Happier times can be observed with the upcoming Soldier's Christmas and candlelight tours set for December 1 and 8 respectively.
Jules Verne would have appreciated Alexandria’s Carlyle House. It is an elegant time machine to the past.
